One of my favorite sights in Udaipur: the Muslim women on their scooters!
Sunday, July 31, 2011
7-29-2011 Last day in Udaipur
We enjoyed as much time at the Lake Palace as possible, departing at about 1:00 p.m. On the boat ride to the dock, our captain positioned the boat so he could get a picture of us in front of the hotel. Nice touch. We then arrived at the shore where our bags had been loaded into a Toyota Innova van.
The Innova is the vehicle of choice around here for hauling tourists. We have enjoyed the Innovas which have plenty of room for us and our luggage. They are also air-conditioned with separate controls in the rear. We pulled way from the Lake Palace dock and made our way through the old city. It is a quite scenic drive through that part of the city and indefinitely the most clean part of the city. I am sure that the reason is because this the rout to the city palace and the Lake Palace, the crown jewels of the city.
It was our plan to go by Alkapuri to the Singh's houses that Troy could say goodbye to the helpers. As we proceeded through Udaipur we were reminded of the vibrancy of the city. There are particular images of Udaipur that are indelible: the site of women riding side saddle on the back of motorcycles and mopeds, often with small children between them and the driver. No women driving motorcycles themselves. Very few women driving mopeds with the exception of the Muslim women. There were many Muslim women driving their own mopeds. How could I tell? Muslim women don't generally wear saris in the traditional sense. They are more likely to wear pants (sometimes jeans) with a long flowing shirt so as to cover their curves. This usually accompanied by a stylish purse and stylish pocktebook. They also have a hijab but not the kind tha covers their face. However, when riding a moped, the Muslim women wrap their hijabs completely around their faces so they won't blow off. They leave an opening only for their eyes and their eyes are often vortex with designer sunglasses. I must say that they look quite stylish and intriguing.
Other observations of Udaipur: there were many more cows about town than we later saw in Delhi. There were also many more dogs. In India there is basically one breed of dog: mutts that have interbred for so many centuries that they look like their own distinct breed. It is interesting to see how the cows and dogs simply plop themselves wherever they want to and are completely oblivious to the traffic,etc. around them.
As our driver took us across town, it became apparent that he had not been informed about our intent to visit Alkapuri as we were headed directly to the airport which is about 25 kilometers from town. When we realized this we tried to communicate it to our driver but t turned out he did notu nderstandEnglish. But he got on the phone with the Lake Palace and they got him straightened out.
Then we headed for Alkapuri, with still plenty of time to visit and make it to the airport. But then we got a call from the hotel: I had left my iPad at the airport. Not too stupid. So, we visited the Singhs and the helpers. Mrs. Singh shave us some refreshing sweet lime drinks and some roses and then we beat it back to the airport in time to catch the plane.
We had a slight hassle at check in but miraculously one of the staff from the Udaovilas appeared out of nowhere and greased the skids for us and we got our tickets no problem. We went through security where iwas detained. My hip replacement was setting off the metal detector. Then they would pat me down and they could not figure out where the metal was. I tried to explain to them that it is inside but they did not understand. They called over the supervisor and he took me into a private room. I pulled down my pants and showed him my scar and I think they figured it out.
We got on the Jet Airways flight to Delhi. This was another comfortable turbo-prop plane. These planes are not too loud and have a very fast and smooth flight. It is about 1.5 hours to Delhi. The flights seem to always run on time or maybe we were just lucky.
The Innova is the vehicle of choice around here for hauling tourists. We have enjoyed the Innovas which have plenty of room for us and our luggage. They are also air-conditioned with separate controls in the rear. We pulled way from the Lake Palace dock and made our way through the old city. It is a quite scenic drive through that part of the city and indefinitely the most clean part of the city. I am sure that the reason is because this the rout to the city palace and the Lake Palace, the crown jewels of the city.
It was our plan to go by Alkapuri to the Singh's houses that Troy could say goodbye to the helpers. As we proceeded through Udaipur we were reminded of the vibrancy of the city. There are particular images of Udaipur that are indelible: the site of women riding side saddle on the back of motorcycles and mopeds, often with small children between them and the driver. No women driving motorcycles themselves. Very few women driving mopeds with the exception of the Muslim women. There were many Muslim women driving their own mopeds. How could I tell? Muslim women don't generally wear saris in the traditional sense. They are more likely to wear pants (sometimes jeans) with a long flowing shirt so as to cover their curves. This usually accompanied by a stylish purse and stylish pocktebook. They also have a hijab but not the kind tha covers their face. However, when riding a moped, the Muslim women wrap their hijabs completely around their faces so they won't blow off. They leave an opening only for their eyes and their eyes are often vortex with designer sunglasses. I must say that they look quite stylish and intriguing.
Other observations of Udaipur: there were many more cows about town than we later saw in Delhi. There were also many more dogs. In India there is basically one breed of dog: mutts that have interbred for so many centuries that they look like their own distinct breed. It is interesting to see how the cows and dogs simply plop themselves wherever they want to and are completely oblivious to the traffic,etc. around them.
As our driver took us across town, it became apparent that he had not been informed about our intent to visit Alkapuri as we were headed directly to the airport which is about 25 kilometers from town. When we realized this we tried to communicate it to our driver but t turned out he did notu nderstandEnglish. But he got on the phone with the Lake Palace and they got him straightened out.
Then we headed for Alkapuri, with still plenty of time to visit and make it to the airport. But then we got a call from the hotel: I had left my iPad at the airport. Not too stupid. So, we visited the Singhs and the helpers. Mrs. Singh shave us some refreshing sweet lime drinks and some roses and then we beat it back to the airport in time to catch the plane.
We had a slight hassle at check in but miraculously one of the staff from the Udaovilas appeared out of nowhere and greased the skids for us and we got our tickets no problem. We went through security where iwas detained. My hip replacement was setting off the metal detector. Then they would pat me down and they could not figure out where the metal was. I tried to explain to them that it is inside but they did not understand. They called over the supervisor and he took me into a private room. I pulled down my pants and showed him my scar and I think they figured it out.
We got on the Jet Airways flight to Delhi. This was another comfortable turbo-prop plane. These planes are not too loud and have a very fast and smooth flight. It is about 1.5 hours to Delhi. The flights seem to always run on time or maybe we were just lucky.
Saturday, July 30, 2011
A night at the Lake Palace 7-28-2011
We then went through security at the lake palace dock and said farewell to the Udaivilas boat. The lake palace boat then took us to the lake palace. As we disembarked, the doorman told us that we had the best suites in the hotel. We figured he was just blowing us some smoke.
Interestingly, I had booked our room at the Lake Palace a couple of months go. I got a good rate for this unique 'only in the world' accomodation. The Lake Palace Hotel is operated by Taj Hotels International. The Lake Palace is its own island in Lake Pichola. The initial structure was built by the Majahrana of Udaipur. The property has been owned in the Majahrana's family since that time. In 1948, when India was granted independence, the Majahranas from throughout the country were stripped of their power. The Majahrana of Udaipur had ruled over about 500,000 people at any given point during the times of the Majahrana.
The government taxed the Majahranas tremendously in an effort to wrest their massive assets (accumulated over centuries) away from them. However, the Majahranas were able to hang on to some assets by finding waysto generate income. In the case of the majahrana of Udaipur, he was able to convert the City Palace to a money generating museum as well as two hotels and a restaurant. He was able to convert the Lake Palace in 1963 to one of the nicest hotels in the world. It is also the setting of the villain's lair in the James Bond movie 'Octopussy'.
I booked the room for me and Fariba through Travelocity. It is luck of the draw as far as room quality when you book Travelocity. About two weeks before we came to Udaipur, we learned that the Lake Palace does not allow three people to a room. As such, we were required to book a second room for Troy. In that the rooms are somewhat expensive (!) I asked for a discount which they gave me. What we did not anticipate was that the hotel would put us in perhaps the most beautiful hotel room in the world and definitely the nicest one at the Lake Palace. And they put Troy next door in a room that was almost equally as nice. Both rooms adjoined the swimming pool and spa area. I am putting up pictures of our rooms.
After arriving by boat at the Lake Palace, our hostess then took us in to a seating area where we were served cold sweet lime drimks. The hostess then came and took us on a tour of the hotel. There was an open air reading area with very comfortable seating. There was a marble dance floor and then across to a bar and then an outdoor seating area by the edge of the lake. There were two restaurants, one informal and the other more formal. There was the famed lotus pond in the courtyard along with tropical gardens. She led us on to our room and opened the door revealing a grand room with a swing in the center. Stained glass windows with a seating niche with view of the city palace. Another seating area with a a couch and chairs and fresh fruit. A huge bathroom including his and her sinks, a tub, shower and bidet.
There is even a swing outside the room. Swings are found in many homes in India and we are told that people swing in them particularly at monsoon to celebrate the life brought by water. The room is simply one of the most beautiful well-appointed spaces, we have seen in our lives.
Then we went to Troy's room. Keep in mind that when I booked the first room, it was my intention that it be shared by me, Fariba and Troy. The hotel later told me there was a limit of two persons per room and the staff insisted that I book another room for Troy. They gave me a discount and I booked the room. I figured they would give Troy a standard room but instead they put him in a suite equally impressive to the one for me and Fariba. The ceiling crown moldings are probably four feet high. The decor is more British than our room but it is equally fascinating.
We Skyped Cyrus and showed him the hotel. Then we had drinks as the rain began to lightly fall, momentarily our guests arrived for drinks and dinner. We had invited Mr. and Mrs. Bhupendra Singh to thank them for being such a gracious host family for Troy this summer. We enjoyed drinks while watching a beautiful traditional Rajasthani dance by two dancers backed by three musicians. After the performance we walked around the courtyard of the hotel in the pouring rain with the Singhs. The staff scrambling to hold umbrellas over us. We wanted the Singhs to see the rooms. Then we had dinner,eating traditional Rajsthani food. On to the room and bed, worn out and felling very blessed.
The next morning we got up and lounged by the pool and enjoyed chai. In our room, the sun reflected off of the water and through the stained glass to form shimmering colorful waves on the walls and ceiling of the room, looking like a miniature aurora borealis. Then it was time for lunch and our bags to be loaded for the short trip to the mainland.
When we checked out of the Lake Palace, we learned from the desk clerk that the regular rate for our room was $4,500! We did not even pay in that universe for the room, so don't think that we are insane. It is the off season here and all three of the hotels we stayed in in Udaipur were almost completely empty. Additionally, we were coming from the Udaivilas and the Lake Palace knew this. We are speculating that the Lake Palace was making a bid for our future business. What ever the reasons, it seemed like a fairy tale, once in a lifetime experience.
It was now time to go experience the world of Delhi. . .
Interestingly, I had booked our room at the Lake Palace a couple of months go. I got a good rate for this unique 'only in the world' accomodation. The Lake Palace Hotel is operated by Taj Hotels International. The Lake Palace is its own island in Lake Pichola. The initial structure was built by the Majahrana of Udaipur. The property has been owned in the Majahrana's family since that time. In 1948, when India was granted independence, the Majahranas from throughout the country were stripped of their power. The Majahrana of Udaipur had ruled over about 500,000 people at any given point during the times of the Majahrana.
The government taxed the Majahranas tremendously in an effort to wrest their massive assets (accumulated over centuries) away from them. However, the Majahranas were able to hang on to some assets by finding waysto generate income. In the case of the majahrana of Udaipur, he was able to convert the City Palace to a money generating museum as well as two hotels and a restaurant. He was able to convert the Lake Palace in 1963 to one of the nicest hotels in the world. It is also the setting of the villain's lair in the James Bond movie 'Octopussy'.
I booked the room for me and Fariba through Travelocity. It is luck of the draw as far as room quality when you book Travelocity. About two weeks before we came to Udaipur, we learned that the Lake Palace does not allow three people to a room. As such, we were required to book a second room for Troy. In that the rooms are somewhat expensive (!) I asked for a discount which they gave me. What we did not anticipate was that the hotel would put us in perhaps the most beautiful hotel room in the world and definitely the nicest one at the Lake Palace. And they put Troy next door in a room that was almost equally as nice. Both rooms adjoined the swimming pool and spa area. I am putting up pictures of our rooms.
After arriving by boat at the Lake Palace, our hostess then took us in to a seating area where we were served cold sweet lime drimks. The hostess then came and took us on a tour of the hotel. There was an open air reading area with very comfortable seating. There was a marble dance floor and then across to a bar and then an outdoor seating area by the edge of the lake. There were two restaurants, one informal and the other more formal. There was the famed lotus pond in the courtyard along with tropical gardens. She led us on to our room and opened the door revealing a grand room with a swing in the center. Stained glass windows with a seating niche with view of the city palace. Another seating area with a a couch and chairs and fresh fruit. A huge bathroom including his and her sinks, a tub, shower and bidet.
There is even a swing outside the room. Swings are found in many homes in India and we are told that people swing in them particularly at monsoon to celebrate the life brought by water. The room is simply one of the most beautiful well-appointed spaces, we have seen in our lives.
Then we went to Troy's room. Keep in mind that when I booked the first room, it was my intention that it be shared by me, Fariba and Troy. The hotel later told me there was a limit of two persons per room and the staff insisted that I book another room for Troy. They gave me a discount and I booked the room. I figured they would give Troy a standard room but instead they put him in a suite equally impressive to the one for me and Fariba. The ceiling crown moldings are probably four feet high. The decor is more British than our room but it is equally fascinating.
We Skyped Cyrus and showed him the hotel. Then we had drinks as the rain began to lightly fall, momentarily our guests arrived for drinks and dinner. We had invited Mr. and Mrs. Bhupendra Singh to thank them for being such a gracious host family for Troy this summer. We enjoyed drinks while watching a beautiful traditional Rajasthani dance by two dancers backed by three musicians. After the performance we walked around the courtyard of the hotel in the pouring rain with the Singhs. The staff scrambling to hold umbrellas over us. We wanted the Singhs to see the rooms. Then we had dinner,eating traditional Rajsthani food. On to the room and bed, worn out and felling very blessed.
The next morning we got up and lounged by the pool and enjoyed chai. In our room, the sun reflected off of the water and through the stained glass to form shimmering colorful waves on the walls and ceiling of the room, looking like a miniature aurora borealis. Then it was time for lunch and our bags to be loaded for the short trip to the mainland.
When we checked out of the Lake Palace, we learned from the desk clerk that the regular rate for our room was $4,500! We did not even pay in that universe for the room, so don't think that we are insane. It is the off season here and all three of the hotels we stayed in in Udaipur were almost completely empty. Additionally, we were coming from the Udaivilas and the Lake Palace knew this. We are speculating that the Lake Palace was making a bid for our future business. What ever the reasons, it seemed like a fairy tale, once in a lifetime experience.
It was now time to go experience the world of Delhi. . .
7-28-2011 A morning at the Udaivilas
After waking at the Udaivilas, we took a dip in our adjoining pool overlooking the lake and city. We had the cold breakfast which consisted of wonderful fruits and a number of different yogurts and fresh pastries and juices. The manager, a Swiss fellow, checked on us. The previous day, he had provided us with free drinks at the bar. Later we walked the grounds and talked to Mr. Roop Singh Ji at the animal preserve. Then Troy went into town to turn in his phone to his NGO coordinator and to pick up DVDs that he ordered the prior day. He later told us how when he got to the guy's shop he found out that the the DVDs were at some guy's house so he hopped on the back of a motorcycle and rode to the house and to the DVDs. Meanwhile, Fariba and I hung out at the hotel, getting a tour and seeing an amazing pool and gardens that we had not seen before.
Troy was about 15 minutes late getting back and Fariba and I started to worry. It is amazing to think that he was there for two months and we hardly worried but after having been there for a few days, we worried when he was 15 mins late. Having experienced Udaipur in all of its chaotic beauty, we started to think, what if something happened to him? We really had no way to find him or contact him, etc. We worried and told the hotel staff to let us know as soon as he got to the security gate. Thankfully he made it back safely and the staff put us all on a golf cart down to the boat dock.
By this time, the Udaivilas had already delivered our belongings by boat to the Lake Palace. We went through the very formal check out process at the reception desk and then the hostess walked us to a golf cart for a ride to the boat landing. At the boat landing, a waiter prepared fresh rosewater tea and we got on board the ornate Udaivilas boat for a tour of Lake Pichola. It was just me, Fariba and Troy and our hostess and our captain in this quaint wooden motorboat.
We saw children swimming and women washing clothes in the lake. We saw workers in the old city building a new hotel. We rode past the lake palace and onward to the Lake Palace dock on the shore.
Troy was about 15 minutes late getting back and Fariba and I started to worry. It is amazing to think that he was there for two months and we hardly worried but after having been there for a few days, we worried when he was 15 mins late. Having experienced Udaipur in all of its chaotic beauty, we started to think, what if something happened to him? We really had no way to find him or contact him, etc. We worried and told the hotel staff to let us know as soon as he got to the security gate. Thankfully he made it back safely and the staff put us all on a golf cart down to the boat dock.
By this time, the Udaivilas had already delivered our belongings by boat to the Lake Palace. We went through the very formal check out process at the reception desk and then the hostess walked us to a golf cart for a ride to the boat landing. At the boat landing, a waiter prepared fresh rosewater tea and we got on board the ornate Udaivilas boat for a tour of Lake Pichola. It was just me, Fariba and Troy and our hostess and our captain in this quaint wooden motorboat.
We saw children swimming and women washing clothes in the lake. We saw workers in the old city building a new hotel. We rode past the lake palace and onward to the Lake Palace dock on the shore.
Friday, July 29, 2011
Our stay at Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur
7-27-2011 we awoke at 6:30 as this is the day we moved to the Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur. This hotel is just four years old and was named the best hotel in Asia this year. No surprise. It is the most luxurious place I have ever been. We arrived at about 9:30 a.m. and dropped off our bags. We said goodbye to our driver from the Devi Garh, Naresh. He became a true friend.
It needs to be stated that what sets India apart from a hotel and restaurant standpoint is the total deference with which one is treated by the staff. Every person greats the visitor with palms together and 'namaste'. They scramble to get in front of where you are going so they can open the door. And yet they are able to keep themselves almost invisible while doing this. At a meal, they keep a watchful eye while never seeming intrusive, but as soon as you are done with something, they are there immediately without asking.
We observed that the service at the Devi Garh was superior in that the workers seemed more mature and were much more natural in being able to perform these tasks. That is not to say that the service at the Udaivilas and Peter the Lake Palace was not supreme. I learned from speaking to the workers at the Udaivilas that all of them except the landscapers had had college level training in hospitality management and all had goals to rise in the field of hotel management. One young man said that he would put in 2 years at the Udaivilas and then he would be qualified to work on a cruise ship. The employees at the Devi Garh were not as strong with their english, but they had an innate ability to understand my southern drawl. At the Udaivilas and Lake Palace the workers peak excellent English.
Anyway, upon arrival, we did not get a tour of the Udaivilas when we dropped our bags off-we saved that for later. The tour of the hotel here is an essential part of staying at the hotel. The staffperson greets you at the door, shows you the facilities and as you walk around with your jaw dropped at the majesty of it all, they turn to you and say 'you like?' as if anybody would not be wholly impressed. It should be noted that this is the tourist off season as it is the monsoon and most people come beginning in October through March. Before coming, we had been concerned about weather with temperatures reported around 110 f. Yet, now that it is the monsoon, temperatures stay in the 80's. And, most interestingly, it does not constantly rain as you would imagine in a monsoon. It rained a downpour on our way to the Deiv Garh on Sunday. It drizzles a couple of times on Monday. There was a brilliant sun onTuesday and Wednesday and most of the day on Thursday. Then it poured down rain on Thursday night.
Anyway, on Wednesday morning we had our driver to take us to an area near to the Udaivilas where we could catch an auto rickshaw and ride to old city. The auto rickshaw is essentially a three wheel motorcycle that runs on diesel or gas. The diesel ones are loud. The back seat is big enough for me and Fariba and Troy would hang off of the front next to the river. In that the roads are extremely narrow, if you don't have your own motorcycle or scooter, the rickshaw is the best way to get around. It is generally about 100 rupees for a trip within a couple of miles. You must be careful to negotiate price on the front end. As one goes from the wider roads into the heart of the old city, one is struck by the sheer volume of motorcycles, rickshaws and the occasional car going through. On the first day, Naresh had driven us through the old city in the Toyota Innova van which is essentially the size of a minivan. When we went back on Wednesday, we realized how impossible it must have been for him to make that drive as there is barely space for the van to make it through.
The rickshaws go through numerous near misses and the occasional traffic jam caused by a cow laying in the middle of the road or a wedding procession. The drivers can artfully miss the cows who sit serenely amidst the chaos. Flocks of motorcycle flow through, most of them hondas and with engines that look very small. Very few women driving motorcycles but the occasional woman driving a scooter. 3 or 4 people piled on motorcycles. Troy saw a first even for his time in Udaipur yesterday when he saw a dog perched on a motorcycle between two guys.
We got on foot near the City Palace and walked the streets of the old city as it began to get active around 10 a.m. We saw many food stands where samosa, jalebi and other fried goodies were being prepared in large vats of oil. We saw women dressed in varieties of saris that essentially identify their particular caste. We saw Muslim women wearing hip western pants and heels with the upper two thirds of their body covered with a colorful smock only to see that instead of a veil, they had their heads completely wrapped in a colorful cloth, revealing only their eyes.
We found a place to buy saris and Fariba purchased a few. The door had a MasterCard and visa sticker but when it came time to pay, the guy claimed that his credit card machine was not working. Ha ha. Anyway, negotiated a price and paid him cash. Went into a place that was selling cool looking bags. Negotiated a price and bought a few. Then the guy swayed into a pitch for homemade incense. He showed us pictures of his garden where he grew the flowers that he put into the incense. Hell, who knows if was true but it was a good pitch 'all natural'. So, after that schtick, we bough a bunch of incense. Then he tried to sell us something else and Troy wisely put his foot down. We left and entered a jewelry district. Managed to get out of there without buying anything.
Went to the City Palace. It was built long ago by one of the Majahranas of Udaipur. Troy's host father, Bhupendra Singh, is one of the top managers there. He set us up with passes and picked out the best tour guide for us. Our guide was fluent in English, French and Hindi. We learned many fascinating things about the palace and the history of the majahrana's family. When India gained independence from Britain in Thelma ate 1940's, the Majahranas were stripped of their powers. The govt then taxed them severely, forcing them to sell many of their assets. In this case, the majahrana sold the city palace to the govt, but the govt did such a bad job of running it, they sold it back to the majahrana. The majahrana lives in the City Palace. He has two hotels in the City Palace to generate income in addition to the small fee charged to tour the Palace. He also has a shop and a restaurant. The maja also owns the Lake Palace and receives hefty rent from Taj Hotels which operates the hotel. We saw many great examples of glass inlay mosaics as well as miniature painting. We also saw the extraordinary crystal collection, including chairs with legs made of crystal.
After the palace, we caught rickshaw to Chetak Circle so that Troy could make a deal for some Indian movie DVDs that we could bring back. Troy and Fariba got out while i sat and talked to the driver. I learned that the rickshaw can be purchased new for $3200. The driver owns the vehicle and is entitled to all in come. There is no set route. It costs about $20 per month to maintain plus gas.
After the DVD shop our driver took us to the entrance to the Udaivilas. We checked out a couple of nice shops and then went to lunch at nice rooftop restaurant just outside the gate. We ordered taiga (yogurt with fresh chopped veggies) and lal mass, a lamb dish special to Rajasthan. I have had this several times here and it is excellent. Have not seen it in Indian restaurants at home. If anybody knows where you can get some good lal
Maas near Mooresville, be sure to let me know!
Next it was on to the Udaivilas. The security is tight at all of the hotels in India that serve western tourists due to past terrorist attacks. They run a mirror up under the vehicle and open the hood and trunk, etc. Some hotels, such as the Lake Palace, run luggage through a scanner. We walked up to the front of the Udaivilas to meet the doorman who is an imposing figure in a traditional outfit with a big bushy Rajasthni mustache.
Then we are greeted by a beautiful young Indian woman who will give us a tour of the hotel and who will check us in. The actual check in formalities take place in the room and they like to be very formal about it. I should also proint out that there are many beautiful women in India, but perhaps the most beautiful work in the hotels. The approach to the front of the Udaivilas is spectacular with an incredible marble fountain, then into the lobby where there is a huge domed ceiling painted a deep blue with gold accents. Then on by the bar with it's very formal British look. It is open 24 hours and you just pull on a gong to get service. Then on to the open air meditation room with a domed ceiling of 40,000 little mirrors where they light 100 candles every night so you can see the reflection in the ceiling. Then on to the room. Again, it is the off season and the hotels are not very full. They surely gave us the best room in the entire hotel. The furnishings and bathroom were immaculate. The windows look across the pool to the old city of Udaipur including an unobstructed view of the city palace and lake palace. There is an enclosed patio and then an open patio with lounge chairs, just for our room. This patio is made private by walls on either side. There is then steps down into the infinity pool which is shared with just 7 rooms in. The hotel. There is a total of 87 rooms in the Hotel. We spent the afternoon in the pool. Troy went to watch the animal feeding at the small zoo on the grounds with spotted deer. Peacocks and wild boar. The preserve is run by 80 year old Roop Singh Ji , a spirited old fellow who has done this job for nearly 40 years.
We watched the city lights of Udaipur from the pool. There was only one other couple in the pool as the hotel was nearly empty with the exception of hotel company executives who were there from around the world for a meeting. We understand however that during the high season, all of the hotels are full. We had drinks outside,enjoying the sound of live Rajasthani music . I get the homemade ginger ale here. We don't have anything like this at home. We had dinner at the restaurant with excellent service and food as usual.
It needs to be stated that what sets India apart from a hotel and restaurant standpoint is the total deference with which one is treated by the staff. Every person greats the visitor with palms together and 'namaste'. They scramble to get in front of where you are going so they can open the door. And yet they are able to keep themselves almost invisible while doing this. At a meal, they keep a watchful eye while never seeming intrusive, but as soon as you are done with something, they are there immediately without asking.
We observed that the service at the Devi Garh was superior in that the workers seemed more mature and were much more natural in being able to perform these tasks. That is not to say that the service at the Udaivilas and Peter the Lake Palace was not supreme. I learned from speaking to the workers at the Udaivilas that all of them except the landscapers had had college level training in hospitality management and all had goals to rise in the field of hotel management. One young man said that he would put in 2 years at the Udaivilas and then he would be qualified to work on a cruise ship. The employees at the Devi Garh were not as strong with their english, but they had an innate ability to understand my southern drawl. At the Udaivilas and Lake Palace the workers peak excellent English.
Anyway, upon arrival, we did not get a tour of the Udaivilas when we dropped our bags off-we saved that for later. The tour of the hotel here is an essential part of staying at the hotel. The staffperson greets you at the door, shows you the facilities and as you walk around with your jaw dropped at the majesty of it all, they turn to you and say 'you like?' as if anybody would not be wholly impressed. It should be noted that this is the tourist off season as it is the monsoon and most people come beginning in October through March. Before coming, we had been concerned about weather with temperatures reported around 110 f. Yet, now that it is the monsoon, temperatures stay in the 80's. And, most interestingly, it does not constantly rain as you would imagine in a monsoon. It rained a downpour on our way to the Deiv Garh on Sunday. It drizzles a couple of times on Monday. There was a brilliant sun onTuesday and Wednesday and most of the day on Thursday. Then it poured down rain on Thursday night.
Anyway, on Wednesday morning we had our driver to take us to an area near to the Udaivilas where we could catch an auto rickshaw and ride to old city. The auto rickshaw is essentially a three wheel motorcycle that runs on diesel or gas. The diesel ones are loud. The back seat is big enough for me and Fariba and Troy would hang off of the front next to the river. In that the roads are extremely narrow, if you don't have your own motorcycle or scooter, the rickshaw is the best way to get around. It is generally about 100 rupees for a trip within a couple of miles. You must be careful to negotiate price on the front end. As one goes from the wider roads into the heart of the old city, one is struck by the sheer volume of motorcycles, rickshaws and the occasional car going through. On the first day, Naresh had driven us through the old city in the Toyota Innova van which is essentially the size of a minivan. When we went back on Wednesday, we realized how impossible it must have been for him to make that drive as there is barely space for the van to make it through.
The rickshaws go through numerous near misses and the occasional traffic jam caused by a cow laying in the middle of the road or a wedding procession. The drivers can artfully miss the cows who sit serenely amidst the chaos. Flocks of motorcycle flow through, most of them hondas and with engines that look very small. Very few women driving motorcycles but the occasional woman driving a scooter. 3 or 4 people piled on motorcycles. Troy saw a first even for his time in Udaipur yesterday when he saw a dog perched on a motorcycle between two guys.
We got on foot near the City Palace and walked the streets of the old city as it began to get active around 10 a.m. We saw many food stands where samosa, jalebi and other fried goodies were being prepared in large vats of oil. We saw women dressed in varieties of saris that essentially identify their particular caste. We saw Muslim women wearing hip western pants and heels with the upper two thirds of their body covered with a colorful smock only to see that instead of a veil, they had their heads completely wrapped in a colorful cloth, revealing only their eyes.
We found a place to buy saris and Fariba purchased a few. The door had a MasterCard and visa sticker but when it came time to pay, the guy claimed that his credit card machine was not working. Ha ha. Anyway, negotiated a price and paid him cash. Went into a place that was selling cool looking bags. Negotiated a price and bought a few. Then the guy swayed into a pitch for homemade incense. He showed us pictures of his garden where he grew the flowers that he put into the incense. Hell, who knows if was true but it was a good pitch 'all natural'. So, after that schtick, we bough a bunch of incense. Then he tried to sell us something else and Troy wisely put his foot down. We left and entered a jewelry district. Managed to get out of there without buying anything.
Went to the City Palace. It was built long ago by one of the Majahranas of Udaipur. Troy's host father, Bhupendra Singh, is one of the top managers there. He set us up with passes and picked out the best tour guide for us. Our guide was fluent in English, French and Hindi. We learned many fascinating things about the palace and the history of the majahrana's family. When India gained independence from Britain in Thelma ate 1940's, the Majahranas were stripped of their powers. The govt then taxed them severely, forcing them to sell many of their assets. In this case, the majahrana sold the city palace to the govt, but the govt did such a bad job of running it, they sold it back to the majahrana. The majahrana lives in the City Palace. He has two hotels in the City Palace to generate income in addition to the small fee charged to tour the Palace. He also has a shop and a restaurant. The maja also owns the Lake Palace and receives hefty rent from Taj Hotels which operates the hotel. We saw many great examples of glass inlay mosaics as well as miniature painting. We also saw the extraordinary crystal collection, including chairs with legs made of crystal.
After the palace, we caught rickshaw to Chetak Circle so that Troy could make a deal for some Indian movie DVDs that we could bring back. Troy and Fariba got out while i sat and talked to the driver. I learned that the rickshaw can be purchased new for $3200. The driver owns the vehicle and is entitled to all in come. There is no set route. It costs about $20 per month to maintain plus gas.
After the DVD shop our driver took us to the entrance to the Udaivilas. We checked out a couple of nice shops and then went to lunch at nice rooftop restaurant just outside the gate. We ordered taiga (yogurt with fresh chopped veggies) and lal mass, a lamb dish special to Rajasthan. I have had this several times here and it is excellent. Have not seen it in Indian restaurants at home. If anybody knows where you can get some good lal
Maas near Mooresville, be sure to let me know!
Next it was on to the Udaivilas. The security is tight at all of the hotels in India that serve western tourists due to past terrorist attacks. They run a mirror up under the vehicle and open the hood and trunk, etc. Some hotels, such as the Lake Palace, run luggage through a scanner. We walked up to the front of the Udaivilas to meet the doorman who is an imposing figure in a traditional outfit with a big bushy Rajasthni mustache.
Then we are greeted by a beautiful young Indian woman who will give us a tour of the hotel and who will check us in. The actual check in formalities take place in the room and they like to be very formal about it. I should also proint out that there are many beautiful women in India, but perhaps the most beautiful work in the hotels. The approach to the front of the Udaivilas is spectacular with an incredible marble fountain, then into the lobby where there is a huge domed ceiling painted a deep blue with gold accents. Then on by the bar with it's very formal British look. It is open 24 hours and you just pull on a gong to get service. Then on to the open air meditation room with a domed ceiling of 40,000 little mirrors where they light 100 candles every night so you can see the reflection in the ceiling. Then on to the room. Again, it is the off season and the hotels are not very full. They surely gave us the best room in the entire hotel. The furnishings and bathroom were immaculate. The windows look across the pool to the old city of Udaipur including an unobstructed view of the city palace and lake palace. There is an enclosed patio and then an open patio with lounge chairs, just for our room. This patio is made private by walls on either side. There is then steps down into the infinity pool which is shared with just 7 rooms in. The hotel. There is a total of 87 rooms in the Hotel. We spent the afternoon in the pool. Troy went to watch the animal feeding at the small zoo on the grounds with spotted deer. Peacocks and wild boar. The preserve is run by 80 year old Roop Singh Ji , a spirited old fellow who has done this job for nearly 40 years.
We watched the city lights of Udaipur from the pool. There was only one other couple in the pool as the hotel was nearly empty with the exception of hotel company executives who were there from around the world for a meeting. We understand however that during the high season, all of the hotels are full. We had drinks outside,enjoying the sound of live Rajasthani music . I get the homemade ginger ale here. We don't have anything like this at home. We had dinner at the restaurant with excellent service and food as usual.
Thursday, July 28, 2011
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Animals in the Road
An observation from India: of course there are cows in the road everywhere. The go where they want and sit where they want and shit where they want. When you look in their eyes they do seem like they have a soul. They are well cared for. In the city, you will see them eating from big piles of parsley. Most of the cows are not fat, like the ones raised on antibiotics and super feed in America. Instead they are lean, but not painfully skinny. The dogs of India seem tso think that they, too, are sacred when in fact they are not. First, I should note that dogs roam the streets everywhere in India. Invariably, these dogs are like 20th generation mutts. They stand and sit in the road without regard for traffic. They belong to no one and they are not sacred. However, in their mind, they are. Whereas, the cows carry a certain aura which is almost palpable, the dogs seem to be scurrying in restess suffering. But the dogs surely believe that they sacred. There are also pigs, water buffalo, lizards, monkeys and various birds crossing the road. To top it off, the traffic is crazy with vehicles going everywhere. In America, there is a pretty large amount of animals lying dead in the road. But in India, there is very little in the way of roadkill. From observing the drivers, it appears that they exert great efforts to avoid hitting an animal.
View from our room at the Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur, India
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Mirrored room at the Devi Garh Hotel. This is where the king would dine.
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