Showing posts with label Agra. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Agra. Show all posts
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Thursday, August 4, 2011
8-1-2011 A show and dinner in Agra
We walked into the theater and realized that it was very modern and well appointed. There were very few customers, maybe 25 in a place that probably seats 800 people. The seats were very comfortable and the interior design of the theater was ornate. Each seat had headphones and a bottle of water. The headphones allowed you to listen to the performance in one of ten languages.
The show started and it was a blend of film, acting and dancing. The film was on a large screen set at the rear of the stage. The film basically told the story and would introduce the live scenes and then enhance the scenes with further background action. The costumes were spectacular and the sound quality was awesome.
The performance was well acted in pantomime to a prerecorded dialogue and soundtrack. The headsets also sounded great. I would describe the performance as being akin to a Broadway musical. The dance routines were well done though Fariba and I both commented that we would have liked to see something more rooted in ethnic dances.
After the dance, Vinod took us to the Oberoi Amarvilas. This is where we had dinner reservations at the Esphehan Restaurant. The Amarvilas is owned by the same company that owns the Udaivilas in Udaipur. I highly recommend staying st one of their hotels if you ever get a chance. Their service and the hotel environment is the essence of luxury. The Agra location has an actual view of the Taj as it is the closest hotel to the Taj. On this occasion, we went first to the bar so Fariba could have a drink and Troy could have a beer. They also had a selection of Cuban cigars which Troy and I could not pass up. We selected the Partagas and took our seats outside with a view of the Taj, its silhouette in the darkness. We could see the ornate and perfectly lit pool area of the Amarvilas. The cigars were noticeably better than the ones we get in America. Maybe it was psychological because of the legendary status of Cuban cigars, but it does not matter.
We could hear in the near distance a party which we later surmised was two parties: the Muslims celebrating the end of the first day of Ramadan and the Hindus celebrating the day of Shiva. Soon, the last Islamic call to prayer of the night was heard and it was quiet the rest of the night. We wished that we had had the opportunity to visit the celebration.
After drinks we enjoyed a fabulous dinner accompanied by the sound of a fellow playing a dulcimer like instrument. The dinner included and Indian style roast leg of lamb that Troy had that melted in your mouth. I had a quail stuffed with minced chicken and Fariba had lamb with a spinach sauce. We had more than enough to eat and then went outside to find Vinod waiting to take us to the hotel.
The show started and it was a blend of film, acting and dancing. The film was on a large screen set at the rear of the stage. The film basically told the story and would introduce the live scenes and then enhance the scenes with further background action. The costumes were spectacular and the sound quality was awesome.
The performance was well acted in pantomime to a prerecorded dialogue and soundtrack. The headsets also sounded great. I would describe the performance as being akin to a Broadway musical. The dance routines were well done though Fariba and I both commented that we would have liked to see something more rooted in ethnic dances.
After the dance, Vinod took us to the Oberoi Amarvilas. This is where we had dinner reservations at the Esphehan Restaurant. The Amarvilas is owned by the same company that owns the Udaivilas in Udaipur. I highly recommend staying st one of their hotels if you ever get a chance. Their service and the hotel environment is the essence of luxury. The Agra location has an actual view of the Taj as it is the closest hotel to the Taj. On this occasion, we went first to the bar so Fariba could have a drink and Troy could have a beer. They also had a selection of Cuban cigars which Troy and I could not pass up. We selected the Partagas and took our seats outside with a view of the Taj, its silhouette in the darkness. We could see the ornate and perfectly lit pool area of the Amarvilas. The cigars were noticeably better than the ones we get in America. Maybe it was psychological because of the legendary status of Cuban cigars, but it does not matter.
We could hear in the near distance a party which we later surmised was two parties: the Muslims celebrating the end of the first day of Ramadan and the Hindus celebrating the day of Shiva. Soon, the last Islamic call to prayer of the night was heard and it was quiet the rest of the night. We wished that we had had the opportunity to visit the celebration.
After drinks we enjoyed a fabulous dinner accompanied by the sound of a fellow playing a dulcimer like instrument. The dinner included and Indian style roast leg of lamb that Troy had that melted in your mouth. I had a quail stuffed with minced chicken and Fariba had lamb with a spinach sauce. We had more than enough to eat and then went outside to find Vinod waiting to take us to the hotel.
8-1-2011 Marble inlay, a craft of Agra
Our guide suggested that we buy tickets to an Indian 'cultural show'. He had not steered us wrong this far and so we decided to do it. The show would not start until 6:30 so we would have time to lounge at the hotel.
We all went to the spa pool at the hotel. It was a very zen like environment and we were the only ones there. Fariba and Troy decided to hang out in the pool while I went to check out the spa itself. I decided to get an ayurvedic massage which is a specialty of India.
After the massage and some relaxation we left for the show. The buidling where the show is located is half auditorium. The other half of the building contains a fascinating facility selling marble inlay which is manufactured by hand and shipped from Agra around the world. There was a huge collection of incredibly ornate pieces.
The guy had a major canned sales pitch. First he would show us some of his most ornate pieces. Then he took is to a room where four men were sitting on the floor creating the inlay work in the traditional manner. I asked how many people worked at the actual plant and he said 2,200. That fact got my attention.
We then went into a room where he pointed to a table and said this table might cost $750 and this one might cost $1250, it depends on how ornate and detailed it is. I think he was simply trying to gauge what price range we were in or if we were possible buyers. He then poured coke onto the surface to show that it was not porous. He then went into a pitch about how any quoted priced included shipping to your front door. This would be important as the pieces were massive, including tabletops and shivas and elephants carved of marble and set with inlay of other stones and abalone.
We managed to escape the marble store without making a purchase. Next up was the show.
We all went to the spa pool at the hotel. It was a very zen like environment and we were the only ones there. Fariba and Troy decided to hang out in the pool while I went to check out the spa itself. I decided to get an ayurvedic massage which is a specialty of India.
After the massage and some relaxation we left for the show. The buidling where the show is located is half auditorium. The other half of the building contains a fascinating facility selling marble inlay which is manufactured by hand and shipped from Agra around the world. There was a huge collection of incredibly ornate pieces.
The guy had a major canned sales pitch. First he would show us some of his most ornate pieces. Then he took is to a room where four men were sitting on the floor creating the inlay work in the traditional manner. I asked how many people worked at the actual plant and he said 2,200. That fact got my attention.
We then went into a room where he pointed to a table and said this table might cost $750 and this one might cost $1250, it depends on how ornate and detailed it is. I think he was simply trying to gauge what price range we were in or if we were possible buyers. He then poured coke onto the surface to show that it was not porous. He then went into a pitch about how any quoted priced included shipping to your front door. This would be important as the pieces were massive, including tabletops and shivas and elephants carved of marble and set with inlay of other stones and abalone.
We managed to escape the marble store without making a purchase. Next up was the show.
8-1-2011 A little shopping in Agra
On the way back through Agra, our guide directed us to a jewelry store that has been in operation in Agra since the 1850's. The premises is quite secure with a gate through which vehicles pass and an armed guard with a long rifle sitting on the porch. Our guide PC should get a pretty good commission from these guys as it is hard not to purchase once you enter this store.
The first part of the store visit is the museum portion. These guys have a true museum with many interesting artifacts, including guest books signed by their many famous visitors such as Prince Charles and Farah, wife of the Shah of Iran during a time when he was at the height of his power. There are various historic jewelry pieces and other items such as rugs with semi precious stones inlaid and it is all quite impressive.
They then open a curtain and take you into another room to make their sales pitch. This room is very much like an American jewelry store. It is interesting that the lights in the room are off until the first customer enters. This is probably to save energy as electricity is very expensive in India.
Fariba is not big on jewelry but this is special and we found a couple of pieces that we liked. We haggled a deal and bought the rings. The guy finally agreed to the price we wanted because we were the 'first customers of the afternoon'--they always say something like that when they finally 'give in'. The rings were beautiful and unique.
It was now time to drive back for a view of Agra fort. It was here that after building the Taj Mahal for his widow, the king was overthrown by his own son and imprisoned for the rest of his life in a chamber that had a perfect view of the Taj Mahal. Extremely sad story. We decided to skip the actual tour of Agra Fort and instead chose to go back to the hotel and chill.
The first part of the store visit is the museum portion. These guys have a true museum with many interesting artifacts, including guest books signed by their many famous visitors such as Prince Charles and Farah, wife of the Shah of Iran during a time when he was at the height of his power. There are various historic jewelry pieces and other items such as rugs with semi precious stones inlaid and it is all quite impressive.
They then open a curtain and take you into another room to make their sales pitch. This room is very much like an American jewelry store. It is interesting that the lights in the room are off until the first customer enters. This is probably to save energy as electricity is very expensive in India.
Fariba is not big on jewelry but this is special and we found a couple of pieces that we liked. We haggled a deal and bought the rings. The guy finally agreed to the price we wanted because we were the 'first customers of the afternoon'--they always say something like that when they finally 'give in'. The rings were beautiful and unique.
It was now time to drive back for a view of Agra fort. It was here that after building the Taj Mahal for his widow, the king was overthrown by his own son and imprisoned for the rest of his life in a chamber that had a perfect view of the Taj Mahal. Extremely sad story. We decided to skip the actual tour of Agra Fort and instead chose to go back to the hotel and chill.
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
8-1-2011 the Taj Mahal
we had a 5 a.m. wake up call. Vinod was waiting as appointed. As we hopped into the van another fellow joined us. I had forgotten that we had hired a guide for the day. His name was PC, short for Puran Chand Upadhyay.
. From the outset he seemed extremely knowledgable and spoke much better English than Vinod. We rode the short ride to the entrance of the Taj Mahal. The roads are designed to essentially reduce the amount of authorized traffic the closer in that you get.
We arrived at the ticket area. There were very few people who had gotten up as early as we did but we were figuring that it is once in a lifetime. PC got our tickets for us. It is 750 rupees for non-Indians and only 5 rupees for Indians. It makes sense as this national cultural treasure should be accessible to Indian people. 5 rupees is equal to 12.5 cents. After getting our tickets we sat in a vehicle for the short ride to the gate. The drivers were milling around, not paying attention. Fariba and I discussed between us that we hoped we made it there before sunrise.
PC very perceptibly must have heard us and he immediately went to the drivers and spoke to them in Hindi and one of the drivers came over and took us to the gate. There were about 10 other people waiting at the gate when we got there. About 5:50 a.m. they opened the gate and we went through security. We walked across a large expanse containing a wall and sandstone buildings that face the Taj Mahal.
We could catch glimpses of the Taj over the colonnaded wall. We then turned right along a walkway to see a glimpse of the edifice through one of the arched buildings that face it. We walked into the first building and now could clearly see the Taj through the arches. Here we took the first of many pictures, framing the Taj with the arches.
As we walked out of the building and on to the walkway towards the Taj, the sight was so awe inspiring that it sent chills through our spines. We were pretty giddy during all of this.
Meanwhile, PC was explaining the history. One of the early Mughal kings had married a Persian woman who bore him 14 children. She died during the birth of the last child at age 39. The king was devastated and decided to build the Taj Mahal as her crypt.
The Taj is constructed entirely of marble. It took 22 years and 20,000 men to build the structure. It is truly a wonder of the world. You may not know that the building is entirely symmetrical. Thus, what you see in the pictures is what you see from the front and back and from either side of the structure.
There is a marble platform about 100 yards from the Taj. It was another great spot for photos. We were literally the first people to walk to the building that morning. We went to the shoe storage and removed our shoes so that we could place our bare feet on to the white marble and walk up to and in to the building.
Once inside we were inside the dome, which is a double dome. Our guide, who is Hindu, would lightly yell the Islam phrase 'Ali akbar' or something like that so that we could hear how it would reverberate within the space. Again, another incredible moment. Then it was out the back for a view of the Yumani River. Across the river was a large spit of stand stretching out from and adjoining the forested area. We noticed people herding goats, washing clothes and working camels across the space. It was amazing to see the local life ongoing right behind one of the most spectacular structures in the world.
Flanking the Taj are two large sandstone buildings like mosques which would be intriguing structures in and of themselves.
We picked up our shoes and tipped the shoe wala and then went to sit on a. bench to simply look at the Taj and marvel. In the tree above us, parrots fed their chicks with at least three nests built into the crevices of the tree.
I forgot to mention there were also two monkeys walking around the perimeter of the Taj.
As we walked away from the Taj, we kept turning around to look at it again almost every step we took. Chills went through us again when we saw it for the last time and our guide said there are only two types of people in the world: those who have seen the Taj Mahal and those who want to!
Another interesting sight at the Taj were the many Hindi followers of Shiva. This was an auspicious day for them and many of them were wearing bright orange clothing with the men in shorts and barefoot. It was also the first day of Ramadan in the Muslim world so this made the day all the more special.
. From the outset he seemed extremely knowledgable and spoke much better English than Vinod. We rode the short ride to the entrance of the Taj Mahal. The roads are designed to essentially reduce the amount of authorized traffic the closer in that you get.
We arrived at the ticket area. There were very few people who had gotten up as early as we did but we were figuring that it is once in a lifetime. PC got our tickets for us. It is 750 rupees for non-Indians and only 5 rupees for Indians. It makes sense as this national cultural treasure should be accessible to Indian people. 5 rupees is equal to 12.5 cents. After getting our tickets we sat in a vehicle for the short ride to the gate. The drivers were milling around, not paying attention. Fariba and I discussed between us that we hoped we made it there before sunrise.
PC very perceptibly must have heard us and he immediately went to the drivers and spoke to them in Hindi and one of the drivers came over and took us to the gate. There were about 10 other people waiting at the gate when we got there. About 5:50 a.m. they opened the gate and we went through security. We walked across a large expanse containing a wall and sandstone buildings that face the Taj Mahal.
We could catch glimpses of the Taj over the colonnaded wall. We then turned right along a walkway to see a glimpse of the edifice through one of the arched buildings that face it. We walked into the first building and now could clearly see the Taj through the arches. Here we took the first of many pictures, framing the Taj with the arches.
As we walked out of the building and on to the walkway towards the Taj, the sight was so awe inspiring that it sent chills through our spines. We were pretty giddy during all of this.
Meanwhile, PC was explaining the history. One of the early Mughal kings had married a Persian woman who bore him 14 children. She died during the birth of the last child at age 39. The king was devastated and decided to build the Taj Mahal as her crypt.
The Taj is constructed entirely of marble. It took 22 years and 20,000 men to build the structure. It is truly a wonder of the world. You may not know that the building is entirely symmetrical. Thus, what you see in the pictures is what you see from the front and back and from either side of the structure.
There is a marble platform about 100 yards from the Taj. It was another great spot for photos. We were literally the first people to walk to the building that morning. We went to the shoe storage and removed our shoes so that we could place our bare feet on to the white marble and walk up to and in to the building.
Once inside we were inside the dome, which is a double dome. Our guide, who is Hindu, would lightly yell the Islam phrase 'Ali akbar' or something like that so that we could hear how it would reverberate within the space. Again, another incredible moment. Then it was out the back for a view of the Yumani River. Across the river was a large spit of stand stretching out from and adjoining the forested area. We noticed people herding goats, washing clothes and working camels across the space. It was amazing to see the local life ongoing right behind one of the most spectacular structures in the world.
Flanking the Taj are two large sandstone buildings like mosques which would be intriguing structures in and of themselves.
We picked up our shoes and tipped the shoe wala and then went to sit on a. bench to simply look at the Taj and marvel. In the tree above us, parrots fed their chicks with at least three nests built into the crevices of the tree.
I forgot to mention there were also two monkeys walking around the perimeter of the Taj.
As we walked away from the Taj, we kept turning around to look at it again almost every step we took. Chills went through us again when we saw it for the last time and our guide said there are only two types of people in the world: those who have seen the Taj Mahal and those who want to!
Another interesting sight at the Taj were the many Hindi followers of Shiva. This was an auspicious day for them and many of them were wearing bright orange clothing with the men in shorts and barefoot. It was also the first day of Ramadan in the Muslim world so this made the day all the more special.
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
7-31-2011 On to Agra
We left the Gandhi Smriti and began the ride to Agra. The road is a four lane road akin to a four lane highway such as US 74 in design. That is where the similarity ends. The road contains the same assortment of vehicles and animals as are found on all of the roads in India. For vehicles that means trucks, buses, auto rickshaws, motorcycles, scooters and bicycles. For animals that means cows, water buffalo, pigs, goats. Dogs ,donkeys and monkeys. As such a drive on the Delhi to Agra highway, a mere 200 km, can take anywhere from 4 to 6.5 hours to navigate.
On the way down, Vinod stopped about halfway for us to get a clean bathroom break and some lunch. Before we got to the place, we went through a border crossing where Vinod had to pay a toll. While we sat in the car, two guys approached with monkeys on leashes. They wanted to collect so,e money from us using the monkeys. One of him threw his monkey up onto the window glass next to where I was sitting. I secretly began to shoot video of the monkey using my little Kodak zip digital recorder. I knew if the guy saw me he would try to get some money. I figured he had never seen a device like this and as such had no way to figure out what iwas doing. However, he began to motion that he wanted some money and began saying 'camera' and I said no, it is not a camera and we drove off.
The bathroom/lunch place was also a trip because it was like an Indian version of cracker barrel with a bunch of bs souvenirs for sale at excessive prices. And of course the guys were trying to hawk the stuff. Regardless, the food was good. I had some chicken masala that was not hot enough so I had them to provide me with some chili peppers which I ate along with the meal. Fariba and Troy had their favorite, tandoori chicken. It was all good and reasonably priced.
We returned to the road and drove onward toward Agra. Vinod took us off on a side road so that we could see a Hindu shrine that looked like something out of Disneyworld. It was one of those multiple armed princesses about 80 feet high and mounted on top of the temple bios ing. People had come from miles around to pay homage. Pretty wild.
Then it was on to Agra. However as we neared Agra,the the traffic backed up and it appeared our direction of travel was completely closed. People were turning around and coming back and then crossing at the median and continued in the same direction against traffic coming naturally in that direction. Vinod did the same and eventually our four traffic heading into Agra overwhelmed the traffic heading put of Agra and it became a total gridlock with the exception of the motorcycles and scooters which navigated any way they could.
Vinod found a side road and we turned in with the hope of bypassing the jam. Everybody else was doing the same thing. The side road jammed up also. Everybody was chill about the situation.
Eventually the traffic freed up a bit until we got to a railroad crossing where guards had fortunately stopped the traffic from getting gridlocked on the tracks in the way of the approaching train. After the train we headed on into Agra. I had not realized that Agra is a city of 2,000,000 people but it quickly became apparent that it is as we wound through the traffic to our hotel.
Our hotel in Agra was the ITC Mughal which is second only to the Oberoi Amarvilas as far as hotels in Agra. I got a great deal on the room by booking it several months in advance. It was a three person room and had a perfect bed for Troy.
We had dinner and went to bed in preparation for going to the Taj Mahal at 5:00a.m. The next morning. We got to watch the Indy NASCAR race live at midnight before going to bed. Pretty cool.
On the way down, Vinod stopped about halfway for us to get a clean bathroom break and some lunch. Before we got to the place, we went through a border crossing where Vinod had to pay a toll. While we sat in the car, two guys approached with monkeys on leashes. They wanted to collect so,e money from us using the monkeys. One of him threw his monkey up onto the window glass next to where I was sitting. I secretly began to shoot video of the monkey using my little Kodak zip digital recorder. I knew if the guy saw me he would try to get some money. I figured he had never seen a device like this and as such had no way to figure out what iwas doing. However, he began to motion that he wanted some money and began saying 'camera' and I said no, it is not a camera and we drove off.
The bathroom/lunch place was also a trip because it was like an Indian version of cracker barrel with a bunch of bs souvenirs for sale at excessive prices. And of course the guys were trying to hawk the stuff. Regardless, the food was good. I had some chicken masala that was not hot enough so I had them to provide me with some chili peppers which I ate along with the meal. Fariba and Troy had their favorite, tandoori chicken. It was all good and reasonably priced.
We returned to the road and drove onward toward Agra. Vinod took us off on a side road so that we could see a Hindu shrine that looked like something out of Disneyworld. It was one of those multiple armed princesses about 80 feet high and mounted on top of the temple bios ing. People had come from miles around to pay homage. Pretty wild.
Then it was on to Agra. However as we neared Agra,the the traffic backed up and it appeared our direction of travel was completely closed. People were turning around and coming back and then crossing at the median and continued in the same direction against traffic coming naturally in that direction. Vinod did the same and eventually our four traffic heading into Agra overwhelmed the traffic heading put of Agra and it became a total gridlock with the exception of the motorcycles and scooters which navigated any way they could.
Vinod found a side road and we turned in with the hope of bypassing the jam. Everybody else was doing the same thing. The side road jammed up also. Everybody was chill about the situation.
Eventually the traffic freed up a bit until we got to a railroad crossing where guards had fortunately stopped the traffic from getting gridlocked on the tracks in the way of the approaching train. After the train we headed on into Agra. I had not realized that Agra is a city of 2,000,000 people but it quickly became apparent that it is as we wound through the traffic to our hotel.
Our hotel in Agra was the ITC Mughal which is second only to the Oberoi Amarvilas as far as hotels in Agra. I got a great deal on the room by booking it several months in advance. It was a three person room and had a perfect bed for Troy.
We had dinner and went to bed in preparation for going to the Taj Mahal at 5:00a.m. The next morning. We got to watch the Indy NASCAR race live at midnight before going to bed. Pretty cool.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
